Lots more radio info on my main web www.WonderBarMan.com page so make sure to check it out!
AUTOMATIC TUNING:
The Corvette radio includes the "Wonder Bar" electronic tuner witch is operated electrically by depressing the "Wonder Bar" momentarily.
The tuner will electrically and automatically tune in the next station on the dial.
The sensitivity control can be set so the tuner will stop at all stations as just the high powered stations.
The radio can also be tuned manually by the manual tuning knob.
The tuner also includes five push buttons witch can be preset to automatically select five favorite local stations.
PROCEDURE FOR SETTING PUSH BUTTONS:
Turn on the receiver and allow for warm up.
[Let radio play for about 15 minutes]
1. Open the hinged door below the dial exposing the five red selector tabs.
2. Tune in the desired station nearest the left end of the dial. [Push the "Wonder Bar" to tune in stations]
3. Move the first red selector tab (one farthest left) until it lines up with the pointer tip.
4. Repeat set up steps 2 and 3 for all red tabs and, push buttons. [First tab works only with first push button, second tab only with second push button, etc.]
5. Check the setting of each red selector tab by depressing the corresponding push button. IF the correct station is not tuned in, readjust the red selector tab; either slightly to the right of the dial pointer or slightly to the left of the dial pointer until the desired station is obtained by the push button.
[IF a working station is not found where You have red tab set for push button the pointer will not stop. Once a push button is seated push another push button or ''Wonder Bar'' to release it.]
[Push buttons are electrical switches and only require enough force to push them in to the click position. To much force breaks the mechanical stops and, ''JAMS'' stopping all the pushbuttons as well as the "Wonder Bar" function from working!]
TURNING ON COLD TUBES CAN BREAK THEM! IF it is below 40 degrees F. warm the inside of the car for about 15 minutes after heater starts to work to bring glass tubes up a safe temperature.
1956 & 57 Corvette radios are the only model to use a DC to AC inverter, instead of the traditional vibratory B+ power supply.
Of the 30 or so of these units i have serviced only one has B+ problems. In dealing with it i found that NO replacement transformer is made. Leaving a parts donor unit the only option except for rewinding or using an external inverter.
Transformer is very small .5" bobbin with over a 1000 turns of 40awg wire [about the size of a human hair] making it very difficult to rewind and very time consuming, very costly.
On that same unit i also had problems with the audio output transformer going up in smoke after playing for several days. Failure was caused by the bad B+ power supply. Output transformer was not that difficult to rewind BUT when it smoket it took out the 2 audio output transistors AND, the 2 power supply transistors witch replacements are close to $090.00 each my cost.
Corvette Radios 1961 to 1967 use a speaker mounted loading coil with out this coil bias on speaker goes from the normal 1.5 Volts D.C. to 12 Volts D.C. burning out the voice coil in the speaker and, the DS-501.12 Volts on the speaker leads tells You Your radio needs the coil or the DS-501 is shorted on radios that do not use the coils.
I find new speakers being sold that are said to be for
1961 through 1967 CORVETTES but have a .5 ohm coil IN
PLACE OF A 1.5 OHM. This will cause bias on speaker
terminal to drop to .5 Volts D.C. [IT SHOULD BE 1.5 Volts
D.C.] overheating radio in about 15 minutes sound becomes fuzzy. Along with slowly over heating wiring harness all the way back to battery. Drain is not enough to blow fuse only to slowly break down insulation on wiring that could cause a short that would burn car to ground?
The only way I know of getting a clone of the coils Delco used is to order case, iron core lanmanits, and hand wind with migic wire, then assemble them. I only sell them with one of my new speakers assemblys, witch i only sell with a complete restoration project.
Many calim to have the right coil and some do have the correct impediance but the smaller case greatly reduces the sound quality. And, unless Your world is only show points is my goal!
1963 to 1967 Vette Coupes are the best sound chambers on the road! A10 disk CD playing into the Delco then an Alesis nano verb feeding the power amps, Set the rear up with: one 15" bass speaker 600 watts, two 10" 300 watts per channnel, two 6X9" 150 watts per, two mids and twetters up front 150 watts per, and you got a system worthy to be in a CORVETTE! WARNING!: a system like this will make YOUR CORVETTE the center of attention where ever You go! and You will need a second battery in the rear to pull the load! Not to mention straps to keep from BLOWN the rear glass out!
IF You would like to see what a real state of the art auto audio system looks like! CSLs Senior Auto Tech has a broadband video of his ever day driver! Magnum's Lair
1965, 1966, 1967 Corvette Radio Removal:
WARNING!: REMOVE BATTERY GROUND CABLE BEFORE ATTEMPTING RADIO REMOVAL!
A. Remove both side trim {the cover that Your knees would hit} from center dash console (one Phillips screw at top of each side).
B. Remove black plastic heat distributor duct two 5/16" screws. {under dash between gauges, radio, speaker}
C. Remove radio support screw (7/16" lower right hand side of radio).
D. Remove glove box. Disconnect speaker, antenna and power connections.
E. Remove knobs and hex nuts. {knobs may have a set screw that uses a allen wrench or flat blade screwdriver}
F. Carefully tilt radio top back. It may now be removed by carefully manipulating through the side.
To reinstall radio, reverse above procedure. Important: Be sure to peak antenna trimmer for AM after reinstalling. Radio performance may suffer if this is not done. {small flat blad that can be seen through a hole in dash with knobs off}
SPEAKER REMOVAL: Accessible after glove box removal. {Best to send in with unit i get nasty calls after radio is returned go through a two week battle to get folks to check speaker and then all the paper is gone?}
A. Remove right instrument panel pad. [5 Phillips screws]
B. Disconnect speaker connectors. NOTE: on some vehicles it may be necessary to remove the kick pads to access speaker connectors. [To remove door sil plate remove two 5/16 hex head screws and four Phillips screws.]
C. Remove tree wiper switch trim plate screws and tip plate for access to switch connector. Remove switch connector and trim plate from cluster assembly.
D. Unclip and remove right and left console forward trim pads. Remove forward most Phillips screw on right and left side of console.
E. Inserting a flexible drive socket between the console and metal horseshoe brace, remove the nuts from the two studs on the lower edge of the console cluster.
F. Remove remaining four Philips screws retaining cluster assembly to instrument panel.
G. From rear of console, disconnect radio electric connector, brace and antenna lead-in.
H. Remove radio knobs and bezel retaining nuts.
I. Pull top of console forward [toward ear of car.] Separate radio from console and remove it from the right side opening. CAUTION: The center instrument cluster trim plate is designed to collapse under impact. Consequently, do not try to deflect the cluster plate forward to gain more access to remove the radio. Also use care so as not to damage the plastic oil pressure line when pulling console forward.
SPEAKER REMOVAL:
G. Remove kick pads by removing three Phillips screws.
Remove two 3/8" screws and remove speaker.
RADIO REMOVAL
A. Remove right instrument panel pad. [5 Phillips screws]
B. Disconnect speaker connectors.
C. Remove three wiper switch trim plate screws and tip plate for access to switch connector. Remove switch connector and trim plate from cluster assembly.
D. Remove forwardmost Phillips screw on right and left side of console. Unclip and remove right and left console forward trim pads.
E. Inserting a flexile drive socket between the console and the metal horseshoe brace, loosen the nuts on the two studs on the lower edge of the console cluster. [Do not remove nuts]
F. Remove remaining four Phillips screws retaining cluster assembly to instrument panel.
G. From rear of console, disconnect radio electric connector, brace and antenna lead-in.
H. Remove radio knobs and bezel retaining nuts.
I. Pull top of console forward [toward rear of car]. Separate radio from console and remove it from the right side opening. CAUTION: The center instrument cluster trim plate is designed to collapse under impact. Consequently, do not try to deflect the cluster plate forward to gain more access to remove the radio. Also use care so as not to damage the plastic oil pressure line when pulling console forward.
SPEAKER REMOVAL
I. Remove instrument panel cover by removing 6 Phillips screws along forward edge.
K. Remove 2 Phillips screws from window post pads and remove pads.
L. Pull instrument panel cover towards rear of car and remove.
M. Remove screws securing speakers and remove.
FACTORY CERTIFIED
Crockett Sound Laboratory |
The only Delco Certified Radio Service for:
Signal Seeking Wonder Bar. 1958 to 1975 Buick, Cadillac, Corvette, Chevrolet, GMC, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Jaguar, Lincoln, Chrysler, Imperial, Avanti, Studebaker, Packard, Willys, Opel, Rekord &, John Deere units.
I work on ALL Delco Radios made before 1985. Including 1953, 1954, 1955, 1956, 1957 Corvettes all though I am not certified on Delco units before 1958 I do claim to be Heir Apparent!
Delco electronic specification radio restorations.
Speaker reconing: Replacing all the soft parts that age using Delco frame.
Show quality bezel cosmetology on most models.
Audiophile modifications:
Line Input to allow the Delco's to play iPods, CDs, Satellite radio, etc, using Delco's volume and tone to control sound.
Line Output to drive massive Watt power amps.
Custom made wiring harness for a near drop in installation of Hot-Rod audio components.
New High-Pro speakers set up to work with any make or model GM car made from 1953 to 1985.
To reserve a place on my work list please send a RSVP fee check for $25.00 [RSVP fee will be deducted from the basic electronic restoration fee, but not refunded] along with a one page 8.5" X 11" work order:
IF HAND WRITTEN ''PLEASE'' AT LEAST MAKE RETURN SHIPPING ADDRESS & CONTACT INFO ''READEABLE''!
First return shipping address, Your contact info, then info on what radio You will be sending (model # off radio if possible), a brief to the point description of known problems, a statement as to any work You wish to be done outside basic electronic restoration, any items You wish to purchase. Yes or No as to bezel cosmetology. Time Frame: Let me know Your situation, just starting a frame off no big rush. Or First girl friend back home to see Mom 30 years later works.
Give You check time to make it to shop then send an email with Your full name first thing in subject line. Stating that i should have received Your $25.00 RSVP fee and info letter, I will reply and, save that email for further contact. If i do not confirm receipt of Your RSVP or each shipment. Please send another email asking for it.
When i do have You send Your project for work, I will ask that You include a check for the remaing balance for the Basic Electronic Maintenance fee and any other work or items requested + $40.00 for return shipping & handling via UPS Ground with $1,500.00 of value on shipment with signature required in a 12" cube box 11 pounds or less.
Track Your unit with UPS's online tracking system, ''AFTER!'' it is delivered to shop email me to confirm that i have received Your project.
Historically October and, November is when most of my work orders come in, 60~80% at this time! Often taking till Feburay or later to work all of those off. Then after the spring Barrett-Jackson AZ auction and, Daytona 500. IF You wait till March to get on my work list, You may not receive You project back untill August or later. So IF You hope to have Your project finished by spring You need to be on my work list by early November. Because after having my head stuck in radios all winter come spring i am ready to get outside to watch the wind blow and, grass grow! Myself.
My electronic service skills come from going on my first TV service call with my Dad at the age of eight. Certified and, trained by RCA & Motorola on there audio products at 13, Delco in 1967 at the age of 14. Working with the top recording studio builders and, live touring sound companies in the world with 43+ years of on the job traning in electronic sound system service! AND, I still learn on every unit i work on!
P/S: I did not get Zenith's certification back in the day because they all ready had a TV tech in the area BUT i did do his audio work!
There is a click box to help one work through my Delco Radio Service pages!
No matter what make or model car You have You are making money on my services! With a none working radio You loose value! With one of my RESTORED Delco units adding to Your vehicle!
I can make any vintage Delco Radio sound a 1000 times better than a secert audio system can and it stays factory with my hiden black boxes! and, modifications. That are true audiophile quality! Not ''JUNK!''
